By Amanda Loviza/Farm to Fork
The “locavore” movement is sweeping the nation. Many consumers are turning away from Mexican tomatoes and Peruvian asparagus, and instead they are going to farmers’ markets and searching the grocery aisles for food made closer to home. In Kentucky, the Department of Agriculture has developed the Kentucky Proud program in order to make it easier for Kentuckians to recognize food products made in their home state. The program has approved more than 1,800 producers as “Kentucky Proud,” and along with farmers’ markets, retailers across the state carry Kentucky Proud items.
In Houchens, Kentucky Legend ham has the Kentucky Proud label. However, the same brand of ham is not labeled Kentucky Proud in Wal-Mart. (Amanda Loviza/Farm to Fork)
In Bowling Green, Ky., Houchens Markets and Kroger, two of the city’s three main grocery chains, say they carry Kentucky Proud items. Wal-Mart does not.
“We do try to focus on Kentucky Proud products,” said Alan Larson, who oversees purchasing for Bowling Green Houchens Industries. “If we can teach people to support local economies, we’ll be much better off.”
But searching the aisles of Houchens and Kroger, looking for labels and signs, revealed only one visible Kentucky Pride logo, in the Houchens meat department. Neither Houchens nor Kroger employees approached by a reporter had ever heard of Kentucky Proud.
Bill Clary, director of public relations for the Kentucky Department of Agriculture and brand manager of Kentucky Proud Advertising, said that the use of the Kentucky Proud label is in the hands of the producer, and Bowling Green does not yet have strong retail partnerships with Kentucky Proud. Lexington, Louisville and northern Kentucky have a very visible Kentucky Proud presence in grocery stores, he said.
This pork was produced in Kentucky; however, would most consumers be able to read the fine print in order to see that? (Amanda Loviza/Farm to Fork)
“I think you’re gonna see as the next two to three years unfold, I think you’re gonna see more visibility in Bowling Green… it’s gonna be different,” Clary said.
But to some, simply having more Kentucky Proud products available to the general public is not enough. Joe O’Daniel, owner of O’Daniel Farms outside of Bowling Green, is a Kentucky Proud member, but he does not use any of the program’s marketing.
“If you ask me, Kentucky Proud isn’t worth the paper it’s printed on,” O’Daniel said. “It’s not a very policed program. It’s basically, ‘Give it to whoever applies.’”
To be Kentucky Proud, a food item’s main ingredients must be produced and/or processed in Kentucky, according to the Kentucky Proud producer application form. The legislation goes into no more detail.
“Much of what we do is the honor program,” Clary said. “The Kentucky Department of Agriculture doesn’t have the resources, manpower or the mandate to do more… but I don’t know of anything in our program that’s not being at least processed in the state.”
It is often difficult to find out where fresh produce was grown, since it is not packaged. Kentucky produce is rarely marked "Kentucky Proud," because of the labor-intensive process of labeling. (Amanda Loviza/Farm to Fork)
O’Daniel doesn’t think all Kentucky Proud producers are advertising honestly. A store may sell meat and condiments, and the sauces are made in Kentucky but the meat is from outside the state. The store still calls itself “Kentucky Proud.”
“To me, a lot of these stores say they’re doing all this stuff, but they’re barely even trying,” O’Daniel said.
Although Clary said a past phone survey showed that more than half of Kentuckians know about the Kentucky Proud program and a third of residents purchase Kentucky Proud items weekly, a lot of shoppers in Bowling Green are still unfamiliar with the program. Dacia Shoemaker, who supports the local movement by making many of her household items and nursing a large garden in the summer, had never heard of the program. Shoemaker appreciates the convenience of the grocery store during the winter, but she has never been able to easily find local products in the store.
Mustard greens can be grown in Kentucky, even during the winter months by using hoop houses. But these mustard greens were grown in Minnesota and are being sold in a Bowling Green Kroger. (Amanda Loviza/Farm to Fork)
“If that was available, I would definitely gravitate toward it because it’s a wonderful thing, especially if it were at the grocery store,” Shoemaker said.
Amanda Loviza
Amanda Loviza is a senior news/editorial journalism and Spanish major at WKU and will be pursuing a career in magazine writing after graduation.
I find Clary’s comment …..”…but I don’t know of anything in our program that’s not being at least processed in the state.” extemely interesting.
Kentucky Launches Local Beef Line:
http://www.bizlex.com/Articles-c-2010-01-19-91093.113117_Kentucky_Proud_beef_line_launches_to_put_local_beef_in_local_markets.html
Beef Processed in Minnesota Wears “Kentucky Proud” Label:
http://www.slashfood.com/2010/02/10/beef-processed-in-minnesota-wears-kentucky-proud-label/
Is it time for Kentucky Damn Proud?:
http://www.bizlex.com/Articles-c-2010-01-26-91208.113117_COLUMN_Is_it_time_for_Kentucky_Damn_Proud.html
Bad to the Bone?:
http://www.bizlex.com/Articles-c-2010-03-16-91775.113117_Column_The_Kentucky_Omnivore_Bad_to_the_Bone_.html
As one trying to start a local serving farm south of BG I was encouraged by a value placed on Kentucky products. The search for land and people to sign up has focused on that – have even bought heirloom/organic seeds from KY to keep it in state. Those seeds grown in AL without purchasing land in KY for the local people – well they were produced in Kentucky…that qualifies? I don’t think so unless grown in Kentucky soil!
Although I’d be moving into the situation that was a big factor – community, being a part of something, providing food for a small amount of people who appreciate where/how it’s grown. The more I see it’s if it touched Kentucky it is the same as being grown there.
I’m with Amy – and as locals support the farm it will come back local. One of the biggest reasons for looking here was the ag climate. Dirtying the water of what is a great idea seems like killing the opportunity for grown and produced in Kentucky status.
WhaBah steakhouse just wants to let everyone know if you are interested in “KY Proud” we invite you to our house for “ky Proud” meats. All of our steaks are raised, processed, and bought from KY farmers (including the fresh sausage from a Bowling Green slaughter house at Motor City on Cumberland trace rd, next to Harley – WhaBah bought remodled and reopened 1.3yrs ago). We are locally/family owened and operated and we are very proud that we are “KY PROUD”
Very interesting and informative, Amanda.
Congrats on your upcoming graduation.
I’m so sorry my response is so delayed to Amy and Jan…
Thank you all so much for reading!
Amy, I’ve read a lot about the “local” program with PM Beef. I do see the perspective of those who feel the program is necessary to process Kentucky beef– but why still call it Kentucky Proud? It just becomes one of many brands of beef from other states. Do you think we should make more of a push for Kentucky damn proud? What would you say to someone who says the PM Beef partnership is necessary in order to properly process all of Kentucky’s beef?
Jan, I agree. The Kentucky Proud program is a wonderful idea, but it seems to be difficult for the KY Dept. of Ag to get it quite figured out. Do you think we will see a significant turn toward local food/products in the next decade?
Whabah, that’s great! Which farmers do you get your meat from? I’m glad you are staying Proud.
Beebee, I really appreciate you taking the time to read this! I’m learning so many interesting things about the world of farming this semester, I definitely want more people to be aware of some of the current issues.
Again, thank you all for reading, and I hope you continue to keep up with our website!
Amanda
For facts sake, someone should tell the WhaBah representative that the “Kentucky Proud” beef steaks they are offereing are NOT fully grown in Kentucky and are certainly NOT processed in Kentucky. There are sorely mis-informed about their own product. Their steaks are part of the Ky to Iowa to Minnesota to Ky beef line that is addressed in the links I listed above.
Do I like this partnership? Absolutely not. Why? Because of the mis information that abounds as shown in WhaBah’s comment. They too belived that the beef they were offering to their customers was purchased from Kentucky Farmers and raised and processed in Kentucky. It is obviously NOT.
What would I say to someone who says the PM Beef partnership is necessary? Horse Hockey! I know better. I raise cattle. I know hundreds of Kentucky Cattleman. I come from a long line of Kentucky cattleman and I operate a USDA inspected slaughter/processing facility. The partnership is a mockery to all who have sought out an alternative market by being truly damn Kentucky Proud and offering this state a uniquely grown and Kentucky processed meat. Ky Proud should be ashamed. This is nothing more than a commodity beef product with a flashy new label on it.
Whabah: If you believe the beef you have purchased is supporting local farmers and is processed in Kentucky, you should contact me. It is not. That beef comes from the exact same line of meats as listed in my earlier links above. I can supply your steakhouse with USDA Choice & USDA Prime grade dry aged born, raised, grown, slaughtered and processed Kentucky Beef.
Also, just noticed your picture of Harper’s sliced smoked pork jowl with the caption that reads: “This pork was produced in Kentucky; however, would most consumers be able to read the fine print in order to see that.”
Actually the inspection legend tells a different story. You’ll notice in the picture that inside the inspection legend the number is: EST 320 and on the package the words: distributed by: Harper’s country Hams, Inc. Clinton,KY 42031
Harpers Federal inspection number as of March 2010 is: EST 2040
The inspection legend depicted in your picture tells me that this ham was actually end processed at: Mariah Foods or (DBA) Peer Foods, Inc. in Colunbus, IN. Their EST number is 320.
Sometimes even the label doesn’t tell the whole store
I go to a local meat market (The Fatted Calf) where most of the meat is from Kentucky. You can ask Rian, the owner, exactly where each of his meats came from. Plus there are several local farms that are selling meats raised in this area. It can be difficult to determine sources of food, but it can be done when dealing local farms and businesses. As far as “Kentucky Proud” goes, it’s not something that I actively seek out.
When did Rian’s start selling local meat?